I recently led a hands-on-class on maple syrup at the 2009 Star Chef conference.   The theme of the conference this year was American cuisine.   In the hour-long discussion and hands-on demonstration, I explained where maple syrup comes from, what weather and geological conditions are necessary for sap collection, how syrup is made and graded.  With a clear understanding of syrups’ flavor derivation and its chemical composition, I showed chefs how to best use the syrup to flavor a dessert.

Here are the recipes for the desserts we made and tasted in the class.

Maple ginger ice cream

• 2 cups cream
• 1 1/2 cups milk
• 1 1/2 cups dark maple syrup
• 7 yolks
• 1 egg
• 1 tablespoons sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3 oz. Fresh ginger

Maple caramel custard

• 3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons maple syrup
• 2 cup cream
• 1 cup milk
• 5 egg yolks
• 1 egg
• 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 2/3 cup + 1 tablespoons sugar

Maple star anise mousse

• 1 1/4 cup maple syrup
• 6 stars of star anise
• 6 egg yolks
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 4 sheets platinum gelatin
• 2 cups cream

Smoky Coconut Tuile

• 4 large egg whites
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup AP flour
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 4 ounces extra virgin coconut oil

Maple Buttercream

• 6 large egg yolks
• 1 1/2 cups maple syrup
• 1 pound butter, room temperature
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

Method:

For the Maple Ginger Ice Cream

In a heavy bottomed saucepan, reduce the maple syrup with the roughly peeled and chopped ginger. Once the maple syrup is at the soft ball stage — a droplet is malleable yet it comes off the counter easily — add the cream and then the milk.  In a bowl whisk together the egg yolks, egg, salt and sugar.  Slowly add 1/2 the hot maple cream mixture.  Add then add the egg mixture back to the pot and cook over medium heat until the custard thickens.  Strain.  Chill over an ice bath and turn in an ice cream machine.

For the Maple Caramel Custard

Caramelize 2/3 cup of sugar with 3 tablespoons of water.  Pour the caramel to coat the bottom of 2 oz. aluminum cups.

In a heavy bottomed saucepan, boil the maple syrup until it is reduced and at the soft ball stage – a droplet is malleable yet it comes off the counter easily.  Add the cream and then the milk.  In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, egg, salt and remaining 1 tablespoon sugar.  Slowly add 1/2 the hot maple cream mixture.  Add the remaining maple cream.  Strain the uncooked custard and chill it over ice.  Once the mixture is cool, pour the custard into caramel coated molds and bake them in a water bath at 315° F, covered for 40 minutes or until done.   Chill.

For the Maple Star Anise Mousse

Whip the cream until it has soft peaks and set it aside in the refrigerator.  Soak the gelatin in ice water.  Place the yolks in the bowl of the stand mixer with the whisk attachment.  Begin whisking the yolks with the salt, slowly.  In a heavy bottomed saucepan, boil the maple syrup with the star anise until it is reduced and at the soft ball stage – a droplet is malleable yet it comes off the counter easily.  Remove from heat immediately.  With a fork, remove the star anise and slowly drizzle the syrup into the yolks with the mixer on high.  Place the bloomed gelatin in the still-warm pot. Allow it to melt and add the melted gelatin to the yolk mixture.  Whisk the yolks until they thicken and cool.  Fold in the reserved whipped cream.  Chill the mousse

For the Coconut Tuile

Put the extra virgin coconut oil in a small stainless steel bowl.  Put the bowl in a smoker and smoke with hickory for 10 minutes. In a stainless steel bowl, over simmering water, whisk together the egg whites and granulated sugar until the sugar has dissolved and the egg whites are luke warm.  With a whisk, gently and thoroughly mix in the flour and salt.  Slowly drizzle the warm, smoked coconut oil into the batter, whisking constantly.  Once all the oil is incorporated, chill the tuile batter.

Pre-heat the oven to 325° F and spread the batter thinly onto a silicone baking mat.  Bake the tuile until it is brown. Allow the tuile to cool.

For the Maple Butter cream

Bring the butter to room temperature. Place the yolks in the bowl of the stand mixer with the whisk attachment.  Begin whisking the yolks with the salt, slowly.  In a heavy bottomed saucepan, boil the maple syrup until it is reduced and at the soft ball stage – a droplet is malleable yet it comes off the counter easily.  Remove from heat immediately. Slowly drizzle the syrup into the yolks with the mixer on high.  The yolks will triple in volume.  Once the mixture is room temperature, add the butter, beating until the butter cream is light and fluffy.

Around our Thanksgiving menu change at Chanterelle, I start thinking about chestnuts, particularly the creamy chestnut puree we make by cooking frozen, peeled chestnuts in milk, sugar, a bit of salt and then pureeing the mixture in a high speed blender.

Each year I taste and test various pastry techniques to hold and display this flavor I love so much.  The most successful dish I have made with chestnuts which finds its way onto the menu in December every year is a pudding, baked creme caramel style, with chestnut puree and crunchy soaked pignoli amaretti cookies. We serve the pudding warm with a brunoise of poached pears, and a thin corkscrew of almond brittle.

I have also featured the chestnut puree in a cream cheese dough baked ravioli, inside a molten chocolate cake, in an ice cream, inside a spring roll wrapper, and as the base of a souffle.  And the list goes on.

This year I have arrived at my favorite chestnut dessert.  I have taken the creamy chestnut puree and added some cream, eggs, a bit of starch and baked it in the oven in a water bath, like a pudding.  Once the tray of chestnut pudding cools and chills in the refrigerator, I use a round cookie cutter to portion a disc of the firm custard, dredge it in chestnut flour and egg whites and then deep fry it.  When the pudding puffs slightly, browns, and crisps, I roll it in vanilla sugar and drizzle it with rum caramel sauce.  Try it.  It is crispy, creamy, warm, and quintessentially chestnut.  And if you are feeling truly ambitious and have an extra 20 minutes, make some marsala sabayon to complement it as well.  

At the restaurant this warm oozy chestnut treat is accompanied with a roasted pear half, rum caramel sauce, marsala sabayon, candied walnuts and tart cranberries.  

This crispy pudding is a dessert that is best if fried right before serving.  You can prepare all the components and sauces at least a day in advance.  

Crispy Chestnut Pudding

2 cups milk
8 oz. frozen, peeled chestnuts
1 cup + 2 tablespoons of sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups heavy cream
2 whole eggs
4 egg yolks
2 egg whites
1/4 cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons flour
3/4 cup chestnut flour
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 teaspoon ground vanilla bean powder
2 cups vegetable oil for frying

In a sauce pot, simmer the chestnuts with 2 cups of milk, 1 teaspoon of salt and 1/2 cup of sugar for 1/2 hour or until the chestnuts are soft and falling apart.  Puree this mixture in a blender and store the puree in the refrigerator for up to one week or proceed with the recipe.  

Butter a 10” x 8” oven proof baking dish.  Line it with aluminum foil and butter the aluminum foil.  Find a larger baking dish that can contain the custard dish and a water bath to surround the custard dish.  Preheat the oven to 325 F.  

Heat the cream with the chestnut puree, stirring very frequently to avoid scalding the puree on the bottom of the pot.  In a stainless steel bowl, whisk 2 whole eggs with 4 yolks.  Add 2 tablespoons of sugar, 1/4 cup of powdered sugar and 2 tablespoons of flour and whisk until the mixture is smooth.  Slowly drizzle the warm chestnut cream into the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Pour the custard through a fine strainer to remove any bits of hard chestnuts.  Fill the prepared pan with the strained custard and place the pan in a larger baking dish or pan.  Pour enough hot water into the larger pan so that the water level comes up one inch on the sides of the custard baking dish.  

Bake the custard for approximately 40 minutes or until the custard is set (not liquidy or loose in the center) and has a slight firmness when pressed gently with your index finger.  Allow the custard to cool to room temperature and then refrigerate it.  This baked custard will cool in 3 hours and then can be fried or you can store the chilled custard for up to 5 days.  

Once the custard is cool, take some vegetable oil and grease a piece of parchment, aluminum foil or a metal sheet pan that is large enough to hold the entire baked custard.  Invert the custard onto your greased surface.  Oil a 2 1/2 cookie cutter or round cutter and portion the custard into 12 discs.  

Over medium high heat, bring vegetable oil in a solid aluminum pot with at least 3” sides to 350 degrees.  (To test the temperature without a thermometer, drop some chestnut flour into the oil.  It should immediately bubble but not brown instantly.)  I recommend two cups of oil in a small pot where you can fry 3 to 4 discs at a time.  You can also use a bigger pan though you might need more oil.  The oil should be at least 1 inch deep.  While the oil is heating, dip the discs of custard in the chestnut flour and then in the egg whites and then, again, in the chestnut flour.  Prepare the vanilla sugar by mixing the pulverized vanilla bean powder with 1/2 cup of sugar and place the sugar on a plate for dredging.  

Fry the discs on each side until they brown and puff slightly.  Remove the crispy discs with a slotted spatula or spoon and rest them for a couple of seconds on a dry towel to absorb any excess oil.  Roll the discs in the vanilla sugar and place on a warm plate plates.  Drizzle each disc with the rum caramel sauce and garnish with a dollop of marsala sabayon.  

Rum Caramel sauce

1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon dark rum

In a small, heavy-bottomed sauce pot, moisten the sugar with 2 tablespoons of water and cover, and cook over high heat until it comes to a very rapid boil.  Remove the cover and continue to cook at medium high heat until the sugar has a golden brown caramel color.  Stand back, remove from heat and slowly add the cream.  Mixture will bubble and steam furiously.  Begin whisking the caramel when the bubbling has subsided, and then let mixture come to a rolling boil.  Immediately turn the sauce off.  Remove the sauce from the heat and add the rum. 

Store this sauce in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.  Warm the sauce before serving.  

Marsala Sabayon

6 egg yolks
1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup marsala
pinch of salt
3/4 cup cream (lightly whipped)

In a sauce pot that can hold a stainless steel bowl on top, bring 1-inch deep’s worth of water to a boil.  Whisk yolks with sugar in a medium stainless steel bowl that will fit over the simmering water, functioning as a double boiler.   Whisk in the marsala and salt and place the bowl over the double boiler.  Whisk briskly for about five minutes until the mixture has thickened, tripled in volume and holds the lines of the whisk.  Remove the sabayon from the heat and allow the sauce to cool to room temperature.  Fold in the lightly whipped cream and serve immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

I am back after a long hiatus. I had a baby last October and I can’t think of any other or better explanation as to why you have not heard from me. Now that she is an adorable toddler, I have just enough time to try to post more regularly.

In the fall every year, before Thanksgiving, at the height of apple and quince season I crave pie. Often what really pushes me over the edge into pie making mode is the mid-October menu change at Chanterelle, when Empire apples become available, and I make a roast, stuffed apple dish with them. Empire apples are abundant at the farmers markets in the New York area starting in mid-October and they resemble a macintosh but have a brighter red skin with a heartier, sweeter flesh that stays crisp longer and also holds up better in the cooking process.

We core and then roast the Empire apples in the oven, removing the flesh once it separates from the skin and saving the skin as vessel to hold the apple filling once we have seasoned it and sauteed it on the stove. I cook the apples with brown butter, vanilla bean and diced dried calimyrna figs. Once sauteed, these cooked apples are irresistible. I eat the filling every day as it sits on trays waiting to be stuffed back in the Empire apple skins.

As I delight in the flavor of these apples I think about pie and my family. I want them to experience this apple filling but I also want what pie does to this filling. Pie seals these flavors, melts them, tenderizes them, enriches them and surrounds them with an ethereal flaky pastry.

Pie is not something I serve at the restaurant for two reasons. The first is that most of our desserts are individual self contained portions — we would have to make an entire four inch pie for each dessert plate. And these small pies, while they can look adorable, have too much crust in proportion to filling. The crust does not brown and bake well. The second reason has to do with my own feelings about pie and pies produced in large quantities. Good pie is a seemingly simple dessert. But it takes so much love and care in the preparing and cooking process to produce pie with taste and texture. Pie is a balance between a sweet, soft, textured, fruity, tart, creamy filling and a crisp, delicate, flavorful crust. From my years in the kitchen both at home with family and at the restaurant, this balance is hard to achieve when making large quantities of pie.

So if you like baked fruit pie, as I do, try these recipes and make a pie or a couple of pies for family and friends in the fall months before or around Thanksgiving. This apple pie has a large quantity of crisp fall Empire and Golden Delicious apples seasoned with brown butter, vanilla bean, a little fig — but no cinnamon — all of which are sauteed on the stove to reduce water content, concentrating flavor and requiring very little starch to bind the baked filling. The apple slices are cooked in the pie pastry until they are soft, succulent and syrupy but maintain their integrity. Serve the pie warm with a dollop of creme fraiche, whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

This pie was recently featured in Time Out New York.

Empire and Golden Delicious Apple Pie Filling

3 1/2 pounds of apples (I like empire and golden delicious or a mix of the two)
4 oz. butter
1 vanilla bean
4 dried figs
1/2 cup + 3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon flour

Garnish for Crust

1 egg
1 tablespoon sugar
pinch of cinnamon

See my post on pie crust for recipe and directions for the crust. The dough must be made at least 2 hours before rolling and baking the pie. It can be made up to three days in advance if you refrigerate the dough and a month in advance if you freeze the dough.

Peel the apples and remove the cores. With a chefs knife, slice the apples as thinly as possible. Chop the figs up finely. In a good stainless steel coated aluminum saute pan, over high heat (on a home stove), melt 2 oz. of butter with half the vanilla bean, its seeds and half the chopped figs. Just as the butter browns, add half the sliced apples and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook for a minute stirring with a wooden spoon to make sure all the apples are coated with some butter. Add 1/4 cup of sugar and continue to cook, stirring every two minutes. The juices from the apples will be released into the pan. Cook the apples on high heat until all the juices evaporate and you have a slight vanilla syrup left in the pan. The apples should look cooked but not caramelized and dry. Allow this mixture to cool while you repeat the same steps with the remaining half of the apples. Once you have cooked all the apples, allow them to cool on two plates until they have come to room temperature. Once the apples have cooled somewhat begin rolling the dough and preheat the oven.

Right before you place the apples into the pie crust mix them with the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar and the 1 tablespoon of flour.

Roll the dough out after your fruit is cooked and already at room temperature. Preheat your oven to 400. On a cool, dry counter surface, roll one piece of dough out until it is almost 1/16” thick and forms a rough 14” circle. Drape it into your pie pan and press it into the pan so that it covers the bottom and sides. Trim the edge of the dough so that it hangs over the edge by 1”.

Roll your second piece of dough out into a circle with a thickness of 1/16” also. Add your finished pie filling to the pie and cover it with the second piece of dough. Trim this dough so it hangs over the edge by 1/2”. Fold the bottom dough over the top and press two layers together on the rim of the pie plate. Once you have pressed the entire seem together, press your thumb and forefinger together on both hands. Use your pressed finger tips on both hands to surround a section of the seem and squeeze so that the dough between your left and right hand fingers forms a peak. Repeat this process, pressing and squeezing around the rim of the pie, making a decorative pattern while sealing your dough.

Whisk an egg with 1 teaspoon of water. Using a pastry brush lightly paint the entire top crust including the decorative edge. Mix a pinch of cinnamon into 1 tablespoon of sugar and dust the top of your pie with the sugar. With a sharp paring knife, make a five evenly spaced slits, one inch long coming out from the center of the pie. These slits serve as steam holes for the filling as it bakes. Place the pie in a 400 degree still oven (no fan) on the bottom shelf for 1/2 hour and then bake for another 1/2 to 1 hour at 350. Total baking time will vary with your oven. Make sure the crust is a deep golden brown and the filling is bubbling — steam is rising from your air vents — before removing it from the oven. Serve warm and Enjoy.

Another fall menu item that compels me to make pie is Quince. A case of quince perfumes our entire walk in refrigerator; four quince in a bowl on my counter at home scents my entire dining area. At the restaurant, we make quince jam for our cheese plate, quince compote, quince sorbet, individual quince and apple tarts. At home, in addition to having some quince jam with cheese or foie gras terrine, I love to add it to pie. It is a bit too intense to stand alone in pie. But cooked slowly with butter and sugar, with its rusty rose color, naturally pectin rich syrup, and earthy, sweet, floral flavor it blends beautifully with apples in pie.

Apple and Quince Pie Filling

3 ripe medium quince (approx. 1# 8 oz.)
3/4 cup water
3/4 cup + 6 tablespoons sugar
3 oz. butter
1 lb. 12 oz. apples ( approx. 5 apples)
1 vanilla bean
pinch of salt
1 T. flour

Rub the naturally occurring fuzz off the quince with a dry rag. Peel the quince, setting aside the peels. Stand the fruit up and slice the flesh off the core in four sections, making sure to leave all seeds in the core section. Set aside the flesh and chop the core into four pieces. Place the chopped cores and the peels in a small pot with 3/4 cup of water and 1/2 cup of sugar. Simmer on low for one hour. Run the simmered fruit and peels with the syrupy liquid through a food mill or ricer. Discard the seeds and hard pieces that remain.

Chop the flesh of the quince into small 1/8-1/4 inch cubes. Simmer the cubed fruit with the quince syrup and add an additional 1/4 cup of sugar and an ounce of butter. Simmer fruit mixture for an hour until the quince is completely tender and has attained a rusty orange color. Allow this quince mixture to cool completely. Mix this with the cooled apple filling and bake the pie or reserve it in the refrigerator (up to one week) until you are ready to make the pie.

Peel the apples. Slice the flesh off the core in four sections and discard the peels and cores. Using a chef’s knife, slice the apples as thinly as possible. Preheat a medium saute pan and brown 2 oz. butter with the pod and seeds of the vanilla bean. Add the apples cook for a minute stirring with a wooden spoon to make sure all the apples are coated with some butter. Add 3 tablespoons of sugar and continue to cook, stirring every two minutes. The juices from the apples will be released into the pan. Cook the apples on high heat until all the juices evaporate and you have a slight vanilla syrup left in the pan. The apples should look cooked but not caramelized and dry.

Allow the apple mixture to cool. You can store the apples for a day in the refrigerator. Right before filling the pie, mix the cooked apples, the cooked quince, 3 tablespoons of sugar and 1 tablespoon of flour together in a bowl. Follow the instructions above for rolling out pie dough, filling the pie and baking the pie.

When I started asking readers of the blog to post pastry questions, the most common one, far and away, was about piecrusts. It seems that everybody is somehow puzzled by why their recipes don’t produce the perfect piecrusts of memory. So this post is meant to go into great detail about the recipe and technique I use to produce piecrusts.

I like my piecrust browned and flaky with a slight crunch on the exterior. Once I slice into a pie or tart, I take great pleasure in seeing thin layers of dough alternating with pockets of air creating a lightness of texture and a delightful crackle when a forkful enters the mouth.

Ingredients
6 oz. cold butter
2 cups flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. sugar
4 to 5 tablespoons ice water
[EDIT:I have recently changed the quantities from the original post. Though the proportions were correct, the recipe yielded too much dough.]

Choosing a Pie Crust Shortening
I favor high fat butter over shortening, lard or oil. I think most bakers will agree that butter provides the most flavorful crust. But there is quite a bit of disagreement about what fat creates the most desirable texture. The texture results from a combination of the method used to incorporate the fat and the type of fat or combinations of fat used. So many bakers will use lard, oil, or vegetable shortening (though this fallen out of favor because of the high percentage of trans fats) instead of butter because butter melts at much lower temperatures which means that, badly made, a piecrust using butter may well have a greasy, non-flaky texture, which is definitely undesirable. Last November, Melissa Clark published a wonderfully comprehensive article in the New York Times that covered many of the various options in terms of which fat to choose for a pie crust; you can find the article on her website.

In order to create a pie dough that is flavorful and tender but flaky, I work cold butter into the dough very carefully. Once the butter is incorporated, it is stacked thinly in pockets between layers of gently worked flour and water. The finished crust should be chilled before it goes into the oven. As this type of crust bakes, the flour and water layers set or gel, trapping the fat in sealed pockets. Steam develops in these sealed cells and they expand, creating an aerated pocket and a flaky texture in the finished crust.

In this recipe I use water as my liquid instead of egg yolks, cream, sour cream, or cream cheese. Water allows for the most gluten formation (the strengthening of flour protein once a liquid is added and incorporated), which does not mean the dough will be tough or chewy, but it does enhance the flaky air pockets and the slight crunch in the mouth. Egg yolks, and cream add more fat to the flour, preventing gluten formation and tenderizing and softening the final product. Sour cream and cream cheese are similar to egg yolks and cream but they also contain acid which prevents gluten formation even more, creating a very tender dough.

What lard and shortening lack in flavor, they make up for by creating a fine flaky, delicate texture. The more you coat the flour with fat the more tender it will be. Lard and shortening do not melt at room temperature and therefore can be worked into dough for longer periods and into finer particles without melting, creating a much softer and more delicate crust (since there are much smaller air pockets and very little gluten formation in the dough). On the other hand, if you use butter, the more you work butter into smaller pieces the warmer it becomes, and it is likely to melt into the flour, losing its ability to steam in the oven, and resulting in an overall toughening of the crust.

Method

In a chilled stainless-steel mixing bowl, toss together the flour, sugar, and salt. Cut the cold butter into 1/4 inch cubes and add it to the flour mixture. Using two knives, a pastry blender or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, chop and toss the butter until all the chunks are coated in flour and smashed up a bit. Do not keep cutting and tossing the butter so that the butter chunks all become pea sized. The butter chunks should mostly remain a bit larger than peas and vary in size, ranging from lima bean size to pea size, as in this photo:

Add 4 to 5 tablespoons of ice water and toss the mixture in the bowl with a fork, or allow the paddle to rotate a few turns. The dough should not come together at this point. It should seem almost too dry to do so:

Scrape out the contents of the bowl onto a marble slab, a stone countertop or a large wooden board:

Using the heel of your hand, smear the butter with the dry ingredients to marble the butter into the flour-water mixture:

Begin with one section of the dough and work your way through all of it. Repeat this process a second time, coaxing the flour clumps into the butter chunks. The mixture should now come together like dough, but the butter streaks should be clearly visible. You might need to repeat the smearing process one more time:

Gather the dough into a mound and transfer it onto a piece of plastic wrap or wax paper:

Wrap the clump of dough tightly with the paper and fold it over the top of the dough:

Press down on the plastic or paper, forming a disc of dough:

Chill the dough for two hours. Have your pie filling fully prepared before you roll your dough.

This makes enough dough for a covered 9” pie. Divide the dough in half. Using a rolling pin, with two grip pins at either end, roll the dough back and forth until it doubles in size. Pick the dough up and sprinkle flour underneath to prevent sticking and rotate the dough ninety degrees. Roll it again until it again doubles in size. If you find that the dough sticks to the rolling surface or your rolling pin, you can try rolling the dough between two pieces of parchment paper or wax paper.

When the dough is rolled out to the size needed, dust off any excess flour with a dry brush. To transfer the dough to the pie plate, you can fold it into four quadrants like a napkin or drape it over your rolling pin and roll the dough around the pin:

Unroll the dough over the pie plate or unfold the napkin of dough, placing the folded corner in the center of the pie plate. With a kitchen scissors, trim the dough around the dish leaving a one inch overhang.

Set the lined pie dish aside and roll your second piece. Follow the same guidelines as above. Once the dough is rolled out to the correct size, you can add your filling to the pie dish lined with dough. Follow the directions above to transfer the second piece of dough to the pie dish. Trim the top piece of dough so that it is just a bit smaller than the first dough that lines the dish. Wrap or fold the bottom piece over the top one resting on the rim of the pie plate, and pinch the dough together on the rim of the dish. You will create a decorative pattern by simply pressing down with your two index fingers 1/4” apart. Keep moving your fingers clockwise around the rim of the pie plate, sealing the dough and creating a visual pattern of indentations and peaks. Chill the pie in the refrigerator for 15 minutes before baking. Before placing the pie in a hot oven, using a sharp paring knife, make some steam holes in the shape of an “x” with slits one inch in length in the center of the top crust. Using a pastry brush, paint the top crust with an egg white wash and sprinkle it with two tablespoons of granulated sugar (with 1/4 tsp. of cinnamon mixed in if you like cinnamon). Bake according to the pie recipes instructions.

For any sort of raw filling, bake the pie at 400º F on the bottom shelf of a fan-less oven for 30 minutes. Turn the oven down to 350 º F and bake for another 30-60 minutes. The filling should be bubbling. The crust should be brown. And some juices might be drizzling out of the steam slits.

One thing I’d hoping to do with the blog is to post new recipes here exclusively from time to time. Everyone likes the flavor of pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving, but I prefer the texture of this chiffon pie in a cookie crumb crust as opposed to the traditional heavy, eggy pumpkin custard pie with a plain crust, often underbaked and gluey.

The pumpkin mousse in this pie is light, creamy, spicy, full of pumpkin flavor. It’s lightness is particularly appealing after a big, heavy Thanksgiving meal. I make this one every year, along with an apple pie cooked with figs and vanilla, the same flavors as the Roasted Apples from the book.

I’ve included a recipe for delicious gingersnap cookies if you want to go whole hog and make your own cookies for the crumb crust, but feel free to buy any crunchy cookie — chocolate or vanilla wafers, ginger cookies, pecan sandies, or graham crackers, as examples — and use instead of making the gingersnaps.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Pumpkin Chiffon Pie

Yield: Two 9-inch pies

For the crumb crust

3 1/2 cups ground Gingersnap cookie crumbs (recipe below) or any crisp cookie crumbs
8 tablespoons melted butter

Make the crumb crust
Spray or butter two nine inch pie pans. Grind the cookies in a food processor as finely as possible. Toss the crumbs with the melted butter and press them into the greased pie pans. (If you are making only one pie crust, you need 1 3/4 cup crumbs combined with 4 tablespoons melted butter.) Bake the crusts in a 350 degree oven for 18 minutes. Allow the crusts to cool.

For the pumpkin mousse filling

1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons powdered gelatin
7 egg yolks
3/4 cup maple syrup
3 tablespoons rum
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon ground ginger
3/4 teaspoon ground clove
3/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/4 cups pumpkin puree
4 egg whites
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/4 cup sugar
3 1/2 cups heavy cream

Soak the gelatin
In a small bowl dissolve the powdered gelatin in 1/3 cup of cold water.

Make a rum spiced sabayon mousse base
Place a pot of water (1” deep) on the stove over medium-high heat. Whisk yolks with maple syrup in a medium stainless steel bowl that will fit over the boiling water, functioning as a double boiler. Whisk in rum, salt and spices and place the bowl over the double boiler. Whisk briskly for about five to ten minutes until the mixture has thickened, tripled in volume and holds the lines of the whisk for 10 seconds. Remove bowl from heat.

Dissolve the gelatin and add the pumpkin puree
Add the moistened gelatin and whisk until the gelatin melts into the mousse base. Whisk in the pumpkin puree.

Whip the cream and the egg whites
Whip 1 1/2 cups of cream until it has soft peaks. Set it aside. In a stand mixer, fitted with the whisk attachment, begin whipping the egg whites on a medium high speed until the whites have become frothed and are no longer liquid. Add the cream of tartar. Whip for another minute and then begin adding the sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time. After each addition of sugar, whip on this same medium high speed for one to one and a half minutes. After you have added all the sugar, whip until the egg whites are shiny, smooth, voluminous and holds firm but not dry and stiff peaks.

Incorporate the cream and egg whites into the mousse base
Scrape the lightly whipped cream over the spiced egg yolk and pumpkin sabayon. Fold these two mixtures together with a spatula or bowl scraper. Make sure you place your spatula in the center of the bowl, scrape the bottom and bring the bottom over the top. Rotate the bowl 45 degrees and repeat this motion. Continue folding mixture together until all the cream is incorporated. Repeat this process with the whipped egg whites. Fold the egg whites into the mousse until it is completely incorporated.

Finish the pies
Divide the finished mousse evenly between the two crumb crusts. Refrigerate and allow the mousse to set. Before serving the pies, whip two cups of cream. Spread the cream over the two pies with a spatula. Garnish the pies with a tablespoon of crushed cookie crumbs, some sifted cinnamon, some shaved chocolate or some cocoa powder.

Gingersnap Cookies

9 tablespoons. butter
1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 egg
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup + 2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon powdered ginger
3/4 teaspoon ground clove
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons molasses
1/2 cup sugar in the raw

Cream the butter and incorporate the eggs
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or a hand mixer, beat the butter on a medium speed for one minute. Add the brown sugar, and cream the butter with the sugar until it lightens in color significantly and increases in volume (6-8 minutes). Add the egg and beat it until incorporated.

Add the dry ingredients and molasses
Put all your dry ingredients in a bowl and toss them together with a dry whisk. Using a rubber spatula, fold the dry ingredients, in one or two turns, into egg-butter mixture. Once the mixture is partially folded together, turn the machine on and mix on a slow speed for one minute until all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated. Add the molasses and mix on a low speed until the syrup is incorporated. Cover or wrap the dough and refrigerate it.

Bake the cookies
A half hour before baking the cookies, preheat your oven to 350.

Place the raw sugar in a small bowl. Pinch off 1 1/2 inch pieces from the batter, and roll into balls. Drop the balls into the sugar and roll each ball around in the sugar until they are covered in sugar. Place the cookies on the prepared sheet two inches apart and press your thumb in the center of each cookie to flatten them a bit.

Bake these cookies for 20 minutes at 350. The cookies should spread, rise, fall, crack a bit and take on a dark golden brown color. The cookies for this crumb crust should be crisp all the way through. If you are making only one pie crust and you are baking some cookies to eat, bake them for 12-15 minutes, yielding a chewy center and a lighter color.

© Kate Zuckerman 2006

Most of the books were shipped with an important errata notice concerning the Honey-Glazed Roasted Pears (featured on the front cover of the book). Here’s the errata notice, in case your copy didn’t have it.

Errata

Page 176

Honey-Glazed Roasted Pears

Please note a missing ingredient in the Prepare the pears step, listed here in bold:

Place the pears in a roasting pan and add the remaining ingredients, including the lemon zest and 2 ½ cups of water.

Here’s a question from Kristine:

“Hi. I am a pastry chef and I love your new book! I was wondering how you make the warm creme brulee filling the brown butter, vanilla, and almond cake? How do you get the filling in the cake and how is it warmed for service?

Thanks so much for all your great recipes!”

Thanks for the kind words, Kristine! As I say on page 37, I make this cake at the restaurant in individual molds, served warm with creme brulee filling. Here’s how I do it.

Prepare the creme brulee base from the Prune Armagnac Creme Brulee recipe on page 89 without the prunes, but do not bake as described. Instead, bake the creme brulee base in a rectangular pan inside of a larger pan with a water bath. Once the custard is set, take the pan of custard out of the water bath and allow to cool. Once it’s cool, freeze the custard in the pan. 24 hours later, run hot water around the pan, releasing the block of frozen custard from the pan. Depending on the size of the cakes you’re making, cut the custard into squares that will inside the metal cake ring molds you will be using for the cakes. Then freeze the squares again until you are ready to bake the cakes.

In addition to preparing this recipe, make the Sweet Tart Shell recipe on page 15 of the book. Roll the dough out and punch out circles a little bit larger than the size of your cake molds. Bake the circles until they begin to brown. While the circles are in the oven, spray your cake molds well with Pam. Remove the circles of dough from the oven and, while the dough is still hot, press each metal cake ring mold onto a circle so that the bottom of the cake mold is filled with a perfect circle of prebaked dough.

Prepare the Brown Butter, Vanilla and Almond Cake recipe on page 37. Instead of baking as described, pipe the cake batter into the ring molds, filling them half way. Press one frozen cube of creme brulee into each mold, pushing them down as far as you can. Pipe a drop of cake batter over the top to conceal the frozen custard.

Bake at 350 in a convection oven until the cakes are browned and risen. Allow them to cool, remove them from the metal molds and reheat to serve.

Let me know if you have any further questions!